---
title: "A Cracked Asko Induction Top Is Not Cosmetic"
description: "A cracked Asko ceramic cooktop lets moisture onto the coils and board below. Stop using it, isolate at the breaker, and check glass availability before pricing."
url: "https://askomiami.support/blog/asko-cracked-induction-glass/"
date_modified: "2026-09-13"
Category: "Safety & Risks"
---


# A Cracked Asko Induction Top Is Not Cosmetic

The hob still lights up and the zones still work, so it feels like something to deal with eventually. It is not.

## What the glass is actually doing

An induction top is not a worktop with heaters underneath. The coils sit directly beneath the ceramic, and above them are the generator electronics that drive them. The glass is the only thing between all of that and everything you spill.

A crack breaks that seal. Water, oil and steam travel down it by capillary action, reach the coils, and sit on the board. What follows is an electrical failure, and unlike the crack it does not announce itself first.

## What to do now

**Stop cooking on it.** Not only on the cracked zone — a crack propagates.

**Kill the circuit,** rather than the control panel. An induction hob keeps its board energised for as long as the circuit is closed, and removing that is the entire point of this step.

**Do not wipe it wet.** Cleaning is exactly the action that puts liquid into the crack.

## What decides whether it is worth fixing

Two questions, and we answer both before quoting rather than after.

**What has already got through.** With the hob isolated, the underside is inspected for what has reached the coils and the board. Sometimes nothing has, and this is a glass job. Sometimes it has been cracked for months and it is not.

**Whether the glass still exists.** Asko lists no hobs for sale in the United States at all. The panel comes through a European channel, sourced against the exact model, and on some of the older imports the answer is that it no longer exists. That is a real risk and we would rather establish it before you have agreed to anything than afterwards.

## How they crack without being hit

Thermal shock is the common one. A cold damp cloth laid on a zone that is still hot; a pan allowed to boil dry and then moved; a heavy cast-iron pot set down hard on a warm surface.

Installation causes some too. A top clamped hard into a stone cut-out with no expansion allowance will eventually crack from the fixing, and that is worth knowing because refitting the new glass the same way repeats it.

## After the repair

Every zone is run and tested, not only the one nearest the crack. A hob rebuilt around a new top has to be proved as a whole, and a second problem found on the day is far cheaper than one found next week.

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