---
title: "One Asko Induction Zone Dead and the Rest Fine"
description: "One Asko cooktop induction zone dead usually means that zone's coil or board section. Check the pan with a magnet and clear any lock state first."
url: "https://askomiami.support/blog/asko-induction-zone-dead/"
date_modified: "2026-09-13"
Category: "Common Problems"
---


# One Asko Induction Zone Dead and the Rest Fine

Three zones work and the fourth does nothing. On induction that is a better starting point than it feels like.

## Two checks that cost nothing

**Cookware.** Induction needs a ferromagnetic base and nothing else will do. Put a fridge magnet against the underside; weak grip or none at all means the hob is right and the pan is wrong. This catches out more people than it should, because a pan that worked on the old gas hob is not necessarily going to work here, and because some stainless bases are magnetic only in the center.

**The lock.** Every one of these hobs has a control lock and a child-safety state, and both are easy to set while wiping the glass down. From the front, a locked zone and a dead zone look identical.

## Why one zone is good news

Each zone has its own coil and its own section of the generator electronics. A failure that affects one zone and leaves the others working implicates that local hardware and clears the supply, the main board and the touch panel in one observation.

Two adjacent zones failing together means something different: they usually share a generator section, and that is a larger part. Worth noticing before anybody comes.

## The case where nothing is broken

A zone that runs briefly and then drops out — and does it more readily late in the day than early — is a hob defending itself from heat. A fan below the glass pulls air through the cabinet underneath to cool the electronics, and joinery closes that route more often than anyone expects — a drawer stack pushed hard against the underside, a fitted oven directly beneath with no gap, a cupboard packed full.

The F-family says this in as many words: the ambient temperature is not good, switch off heat sources near the cooking plate, and make sure the venting holes under the plate are open. Fixing the airflow fixes it, and no part substitutes for that.

## Two families, no shared numbers

If your hob is showing a code, which family it belongs to matters more than the digits. One generation prints F-strings — F00, F0 through F6, F7, F8, F9, F99, FA, FC and FAN. The other prints E and Er strings — Er03, E2, E3, E5, E6, U400 and Er47.

They are documented per model and they do not overlap. Reading an E-code against an F-series table is how the wrong board gets ordered on this make.

## When to stop and isolate

A cracked or shattered top. Not a cosmetic matter: moisture travels down a crack onto the coils and the board underneath, and what follows is an electrical failure. Stop cooking on it and open the circuit.

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**[Read full article: One Asko Induction Zone Dead and the Rest Fine](https://askomiami.support/blog/asko-induction-zone-dead/)**