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Error code

Dishwasher error code F7

Asko dishwasher error code F7: The machine ran its drain pump for a full two minutes and the level did not fall, which puts the blockage somewhere between the sump and the standpipe. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.

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What we can confirm

Code F7, from the manufacturer's own documentation

A code is only meaningful together with the machine showing it — the same digits mean different things on different equipment.

The code

F7

The machine ran its drain pump for a full two minutes and the level did not fall, which puts the blockage somewhere between the sump and the standpipe. The cheap end of that path is the filter stack and the pump filter, and it ends this more often than anything else. The far end is the air gap at the sink or a disposal branch that was never punched out, and neither of those is the appliance's problem.

What it narrows down to

Not emptied after two minutes of pumping.

Diagnostic

From $95, credited to the repair

On the same appliance

What else belongs to the dishwashers

On this make a code belongs to the appliance rather than to a product line. These are the other conditions this machine can display, and the models that can show this one — a display often has more than one thing to say, and the model number decides what any of it costs to put right.

Other codes this appliance can display

Water never rose five degrees in ten minutes, so the machine gave up on heating.

Overfilling — either the pressure sensor or the float says there is too much water.

Thermistor open circuit, or the water read above eighty degrees.

Water intake failed — the flow meter never counted what the program expected.

Inlet valve leaking — water is arriving while the valve is switched off.

Pressure sensor output above 4.8 volts — the control will not use the reading.

Blocked filter — the pressure sensor saw the level fall too low during the final rinse.

Circulation pressure too low or too high.

Turbidity sensor — indicated in the service menu only.

Spray arm divider — its position contact is stuck open or stuck closed.

Overfilling, first stage — more water in the machine than the program called for.

Water outlet — the machine could not get the water out.

The same digits mean different things on different equipment. Search the full code list

In more detail

About Dishwasher error code F7

What F7 means on this make

The machine ran its drain pump for a full two minutes and the level did not fall, which puts the blockage somewhere between the sump and the standpipe. The cheap end of that path is the filter stack and the pump filter, and it ends this more often than anything else. The far end is the air gap at the sink or a disposal branch that was never punched out, and neither of those is the appliance's problem.

Where this appears, and which table it belongs to

On the appliance's own display. Photograph it before you cut the power: a display that has been cleared has taken the evidence with it, and there is no way to ask the machine for it again. Then check the model, because this make changed hands in 2016 and the two generations share no code string. The same characters mean different things on a Classic ERC oven, an ER-series range and a Modernist induction cooktop, and a meaning read off the wrong table is worse than no meaning at all.

Which machines this one applies to

DW20.1 platform, 3000-series. The same number on a different appliance of this make is a different page and often a different repair, which is why this archive is organized by appliance rather than by number. This maker documents codes on 8 of the appliance types this site publishes — cooktop, dishwasher, dryer, microwave, oven, range, refrigerator and washer — and publishes none at all for commercial line, freezer, microwave, oven, range, range hood and refrigerator. Those appliances have symptom pages here and no code pages, which is the honest answer rather than borrowing a table from the machine next door.

What to do about it

  1. Lift out the filter stack, rinse it and reseat it properly — a filter put back a quarter-turn out causes its own leak later.
  2. Check the drain hose is not crushed behind the cabinet.
  3. Check the air gap at the sink; a silted one drains slowly for years before it stops.

Where this goes next

The job this usually becomes is diagnostic visit, and that page carries a starting figure and the reasons that move it. If it turns out to be nothing — and on this make a real share of these are modes, reminders and settings rather than problems — the visit ends there and you pay the diagnostic and nothing else, or call (305) 363-1406 and describe what the panel is doing before booking anything.

This article is based on:

  • Official manufacturer documentation
  • Internal repair procedures
  • Technician repair history
  • Company quality standards

Tell us the model number and what it is doing.

Call (305) 363-1406