24 behaviors · 105 codes
Each page says what the behavior usually means, what is free to check first, and which code — if any — describes it on your generation. Several of them end with us saying nothing is wrong.
Everything people describe
Grouped by the machine they belong to.
The program finishes and there is a pool in the sump. On this make the machine will tell you so in one of three unrelated ways depending on which generation is behind the panel — a printed number on the current display machines, a blink pattern on the legacy boards, and a colon-format string on the Outdoor door whose digits mean something else again. Underneath all three the machine is identical: a filter stack, a drain pump, a hose and whatever the sink end was connected to. Two of those four are free to check and they end this complaint more often than any part does.
The machine completes its program without complaint and the load is worse than when it went in. There is no code for this on any of the three generations, which people find unsettling and which is actually the useful fact: nothing has failed. Four ordinary things decide whether a dishwasher cleans on this water, and all four drift slowly enough that nobody notices until the difference is obvious — spray jets liming shut, a filter rinsed but never lifted, a hardness setting still on the number it left the factory with, and a detergent dose meant for softer water than South Florida has.
Water appearing at the toe kick, which on an integrated machine is almost never where the leak started — it tracks along the frame and comes out at the front. That single fact decides how this is handled: the panel comes off and the machine comes forward before anybody says where the water is from, because a good door seal gets replaced every day by somebody guessing from the front. On a legacy machine the base float may raise an overfill message while the tray fills, and that message is the machine protecting your floor rather than a separate problem.
A load that washes perfectly and comes out soaked. The useful split happens early and you can make it yourself: if the dishes are also cold, the machine is not heating and this is a heating problem with a part behind it; if they are hot and wet, the machine heated correctly and this is about how the moisture leaves. Those are different repairs at different prices, and on the turbo drying models there is a third possibility again, because those add a fan that can fail on its own.
Dead silence, and on an integrated machine the prime suspect is mechanical rather than electrical: is the door. A custom panel adds weight the hinge springs were set for on installation day, joinery settles over the years, and a door that looks perfectly shut can be sitting a millimeter proud of the switch that proves it. On the Outdoor machines there is even a message for it in as many words. After the door there is the supply, and then a control that is genuinely not responding — in that order, because that is the order of cost.
A cycle that has finished with the water still in it, and a machine that then refuses to spin — that refusal is deliberate rather than a second failure, because spinning a full drum would put the water on the floor. How the machine says so depends entirely on the panel: the display models print a number, the numbered-LED models a short code from an unrelated family, the analog ones a letter and a light, and the premium panels write out a sentence. Behind every one of them is the same short path from sump to standpipe, and the cheap end of it ends most of these.
Clothes heavy with water at the end of a program that otherwise ran normally. Three free things account for most of these and all three can be settled before anybody is called: the machine has not drained, the load will not balance, or the program chosen has no spin in it. What is left after those is genuinely mechanical — the door lock the machine will not spin without, the motor and its control, or the shock absorbers that have worn far enough that the drum moves more than the balance check will allow.
Water appearing under or beside the machine, and by the time it shows on the tile it has usually traveled along the frame from somewhere else. Three places account for nearly all of it: the door seal, where grit collects in the bottom fold and cuts the rubber from the inside over months; the pump filter cap, very often after somebody cleared a blockage and did not seat it; and the hose unions at the wall. In a condominium this matters further than the machine does, because water in a laundry closet reaches a floor slab and then somebody else's ceiling.
A finished program and a door that will not release, usually with a drum that still has water in it. Those two facts are connected: the lock stays engaged while there is water inside, which is the machine protecting the room rather than a failure. So the sequence that works is drain first, open second. Where the drum is genuinely empty and the door still will not release, the lock itself has failed — and on this make the premium panels say so in words while the numbered ones give a short code from whichever family that model belongs to.
A machine that has grown louder over months, or one that moves across the floor when it accelerates. Both are the suspension rather than the motor, and both are worth acting on early for a reason that has nothing to do with the noise: worn damping lets the drum travel further on every spin, and that travel is what eventually takes the drum bearing. A bearing is a day's strip-down. Shock absorbers are an afternoon. The gap between those two prices is the entire argument for calling while it is still only annoying.
A cycle that runs its full length and leaves the washing wet. On a condenser or heat pump machine — which is what this badge sells — this is almost never about heat, and that is the thing worth understanding before anybody is called. Nothing is being blown outside: moisture is condensed out of the air and collected, so the machine depends on three separate filters and a condenser staying clear. In a South Florida laundry closet those load far faster than any manual assumes, and clearing them ends this complaint more often than any part.
Nothing has failed and everything takes twice as long — the most gradual complaint on this machine and the one people put down to age. It is almost never age. A condenser dryer's cycle length is a direct measure of how well air moves through it, so a program that has quietly grown from ninety minutes to three hours is reporting a blocked path in the only language it has. There is a limit built in at two hundred minutes, and every dryer platform on this badge has a code for hitting it, under a different name on each revision.
The machine behaves normally in every way except the one that matters. On a condenser machine this splits into a heater and its thermostats; on a heat pump machine it is a sealed refrigeration circuit and the answer is a different order of expense entirely. Which one you have is therefore the first question, and it is answered by the model rather than by the symptom. Before either, though, the same free checks apply: a machine that cannot move air will trip its own thermal protection and then run cold, and that is not a heater problem at all.
A container that needs emptying far more often than it used to, or one that reports itself full when it is not. Both are worth understanding because the first is frequently not a problem at all: a condenser dryer takes every drop out of the washing, so a heavier load, a wetter spin or a more humid room all mean genuinely more water. What is a problem is a machine that reports full with an empty container — that is the microswitch — or one plumbed to a drain that has stopped clearing.
A machine that does nothing at all, and as with the dishwasher the first suspect is the door rather than the electronics: a dryer will not run with the door unlatched, and a catch that has worn is the most ordinary explanation there is. After that comes the container, because a machine reporting itself full stops before it starts, and only then the supply and the control. That order matters because it runs from free to expensive, and most of these calls end in the first two.
An oven that stays cold, or one that heats on some functions and not others. The display will not help here and that is a documented fact rather than an omission: six oven manuals across several generations print an undecoded ErrXX and the same instruction to power-cycle and call somebody. So the reading is conventional and the single most useful thing anybody can supply is which functions still produce heat. A grill working while the bake element does nothing cuts the diagnosis in half before anybody arrives.
Everything works and nothing is right. One complaint here carries two unrelated problems behind it, each with its own repair: an oven whose sensor now reads a few degrees out, which is accuracy, and an oven perfectly accurate at its own sensor while being wildly uneven inside, which is airflow or a door seal. No amount of calibration fixes the second, which is why the cavity gets mapped with a probe at several positions rather than read once in the middle.
A single dead zone on an induction hob is better news than it sounds: the problem is usually local to that zone's coil or to its section of the generator board, which leaves the supply and the main control out of it. Two things produce an identical symptom for nothing and both are checked first — a pan without a ferromagnetic base, settled by a magnet in two seconds, and a lock or child-safety state that looks exactly like a failure from the front.
Everything about the appliance suggests it is alive, and the contents say otherwise. This make prints no code for it — refrigeration here was documented with symptom tables and nothing else — so a blank display is the normal state and proves nothing either way. What does carry information is the pattern: which side has gone wrong, whether the compressor is turning over, how much heat comes off the back, and where the frost has settled. One thing is checked ahead of all of that, because in this climate it is the likeliest single cause and it costs nothing: whether the machine can still draw air through its grille.
Ice building under the drawers, or water appearing on the floor of the cabinetry, and on an integrated appliance the second usually arrives before anybody has seen the first. It is one of the few things genuinely worth trying yourself, and we would rather say how than sell a visit for it: the defrost drain channel at the back of the compartment blocks with debris and refreezes, and warm water down it clears most of them. What brings us out is the one that comes back within a fortnight, because that is the drain heater or the path itself rather than a blockage.
A cabinet that runs and runs and still will not hold temperature. In this county that has to be separated from a cabinet losing an argument with the room around it, because a freezer in an unconditioned garage or utility room in August is being asked to work far outside its specification and may be perfectly healthy. Telling those two apart is most of the visit, and there is no code on this make to help: the manuals carry problem, cause and solution rows and nothing else.
A hood that sounds like it is working and is not clearing anything. Nine times in ten the duct is to blame rather than the appliance, and the test that proves it takes a minute at the outside vent. On this coast there is a fifth cause the manuals never mention because the manuals mention nothing at all — three hood manuals were read and none of them carries a troubleshooting section — and that is a backdraft damper salted shut, which stops extraction completely while the hood carries on making its usual noise.
Lamps lit and the motor silent, which is more useful than it sounds: on almost every hood the lamps and the motor sit on different circuits after the switch, so lights working proves the supply is fine and points the whole diagnosis away from it. What is left is the switch or touch strip, the motor and its capacitor. On the concealed liners this make is known for, the touch strip is the common failure in a kitchen where the hood is wiped down every day.
A built-in combination cavity that lights up, turns and does nothing to the food. It splits into two questions quickly because the convection side and the microwave side fail independently: if convection heats and microwave does not, the door interlocks and the magnetron circuit are where to look, and the interlocks are far more common because they are wear parts. If neither heats, the supply and the main board come first. A cup of water for sixty seconds settles which of the two you have before anybody drives over.
Why a symptom page beats a code page here
A dishwasher that will not drain is F11 on a display machine, a blink pattern on a legacy board, and F:45 on the Outdoor door. One behavior, three labels, and two of them collide with numbers that mean something else entirely.
So the behavior is the stable thing to search for, and every page that names codes names them across the platforms rather than pretending there is one answer.
Where there is nothing to read
Ovens and microwaves display a string their manuals never decode. Hoods have no troubleshooting section whatsoever — three manuals were read and none has one. Refrigeration, freezers and ranges carry symptom tables and no numbers.
Each of those absences was read on a page of a manufacturer manual rather than concluded from a silent display, and that distinction is the difference between knowing and not finding.
Before you call
Or look it up
If the machine is showing something, and you know which generation it is.
Asko dishwasher error code F1: The control watches the water climb during the heating stage, and if it has not gained five degrees in ten minutes it abandons that stage and carries on with the program. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F2: Two devices can raise this: the pressure sensor reading a level above what the program asked for, or the float in the base lifting because water has collected where it should not be. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F3: The temperature sensor is either not reporting at all or reporting something the control refuses to believe. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F4: The machine measures incoming water by counting pulses from a flow meter, and this is what it raises when it counts fewer than eighty in the first minute, or never reaches its target within four. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F5: The flow meter counted more than eighty pulses at a moment when the machine had the inlet valve deactivated, which means water is getting past it. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F6: The device that tells the machine how much water is in the sump has gone out of range, so every decision that depends on level becomes unsafe to make. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F7: The machine ran its drain pump for a full two minutes and the level did not fall, which puts the blockage somewhere between the sump and the standpipe. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F8: This is the machine noticing that water is not circulating the way it should during the last rinse, and on this platform that reads as a filter that has loaded up. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F9: The machine is watching how hard the water is being pushed round and does not like what it sees. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code FA: The sensor that judges how dirty the water is has stopped reporting sensibly. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code FB: The machine alternates water between upper and lower arms and knows where the divider is by a contact. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F10: The machine has taken on more water than it wanted and has stopped rather than carry on. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F11: Everything between the sump and the wall is a candidate, and it is worth working from the cheap end because the cheap end is usually right. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F12: The machine expected water and did not get enough of it in the time allowed. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F40: The machine has detected flow at a moment when it had the valve closed, which means the valve is passing. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F41: The program will hold rather than advance while it waits for heat, so this often arrives as a complaint about a cycle that never ends before it arrives as a code. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F45: Modern programs alternate between the upper and lower spray arms, and the diverter is what switches them. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F52: The one code on this generation that comes with its own instruction, and it is worth taking literally: the level the machine is seeing does not match what it expects, and a loaded filter stack is the reason far more often than a sensor is. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F54: Where F10 is the first line of defense, this is the second, and reaching it means the machine has been taking on water it did not ask for for a while. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F56: The pump that pushes water round the spray arms is not performing, and the machine says so in as many words. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F67: The escalation of F12: the machine has now failed to get its water more than once. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F68: This is more specific than F11: rather than reporting that water did not leave, the control is reporting that the drain pump is not behaving electrically as it should. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F:10: This is the DW Outdoor scheme, written with a colon, and it is not the indoor list. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F:11: This is the DW Outdoor scheme, written with a colon, and it is not the indoor list. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F:12: This is the DW Outdoor scheme, written with a colon, and it is not the indoor list. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F:40: This is the DW Outdoor scheme, written with a colon, and it is not the indoor list. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F:41: This is the DW Outdoor scheme, written with a colon, and it is not the indoor list. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F:42: This is the DW Outdoor scheme, written with a colon, and it is not the indoor list. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F:43: This is the DW Outdoor scheme, written with a colon, and it is not the indoor list. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F:44: This is the DW Outdoor scheme, written with a colon, and it is not the indoor list. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko dishwasher error code F:45: This is the DW Outdoor scheme, written with a colon, and it is not the indoor list. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code F10: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code F11: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code F12: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. This make runs five separate washer code families. A meaning taken from another family is a wrong part, so the model code matters more here than the number does.
What the lights are telling youAsko washer — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. This make runs five separate washer code families. A meaning taken from another family is a wrong part, so the model code matters more here than the number does.
What the lights are telling youAsko washer — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. This make runs five separate washer code families. A meaning taken from another family is a wrong part, so the model code matters more here than the number does.
What the lights are telling youAsko washer — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. This make runs five separate washer code families. A meaning taken from another family is a wrong part, so the model code matters more here than the number does.
What the lights are telling youAsko washer — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. This make runs five separate washer code families. A meaning taken from another family is a wrong part, so the model code matters more here than the number does.
What the lights are telling youAsko washer — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. This make runs five separate washer code families. A meaning taken from another family is a wrong part, so the model code matters more here than the number does.
What the lights are telling youAsko washer — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. This make runs five separate washer code families. A meaning taken from another family is a wrong part, so the model code matters more here than the number does.
What the lights are telling youAsko washer — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. This make runs five separate washer code families. A meaning taken from another family is a wrong part, so the model code matters more here than the number does.
What the lights are telling youAsko washer — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. This make runs five separate washer code families. A meaning taken from another family is a wrong part, so the model code matters more here than the number does.
What the lights are telling youAsko washer error code F1: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code F3: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code F4: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code F6: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code L1: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code L2: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code L3: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code L4: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. This make runs five separate washer code families. A meaning taken from another family is a wrong part, so the model code matters more here than the number does.
What the lights are telling youAsko washer error code L6: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code E0: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code E1: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code E2: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code E3: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code E6: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer error code E7: This make runs five separate washer code families. Which machines can raise it, what the maker publishes about it, and what to do next.
What this one meansAsko washer — reported by blinking lights rather than by a code. This make runs five separate washer code families. A meaning taken from another family is a wrong part, so the model code matters more here than the number does.
What the lights are telling youWorth saying
An imbalance message on a washer is the machine reporting that it redistributed the load and carried on — the manual says in as many words that it requires no action. A dishwasher door that opens itself at the end is the drying system. A steril tub alert is a cleaning cycle preparing to unlock.
They are published here because they appear where errors appear, and everybody reasonably reads them as problems.
Before you book
On several of these machines that is the normal state. Refrigeration, freezers, hoods and ranges publish no codes on this badge at all, so silence proves nothing either way and the reading comes from behavior — readings, frost patterns, cycle times.
Tell us the model with it. Some strings exist only on one revision of one platform, and some — the dishwasher numbers between F13 and F39, for example — appear in no consumer manual anywhere. Where nothing published decodes a string, we say so rather than inventing a meaning.
It depends which behavior, and each page says. Water on the floor, a microwave door with play in it and a cracked induction top are the three where the answer is stop now. Most of the rest are inconvenient rather than urgent.
In more detail
Five behaviors each for the dishwasher, the washer and the dryer, because that is what this maker sells in the United States and what most of these calls are about. The kitchen machines take the behaviors they genuinely produce.
87 codes and 18 signals, across 18 platforms, every one read off a manufacturer manual with a page reference. 16 strings that circulate online without any manufacturer citation are recorded as refused rather than repeated.
Tell us what the machine is doing and the model code off its door edge, and we will say which page you are on. Where a diagnostic is the right next step it is from $95, credited toward the repair.
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